Bosnia & Hercegovina

 

Pecka

Located in northern Bosnia & Hercegovina is definitely a spot worth visiting. Lying in a remote area full of green forests and far from any bigger village the views from the cliff have something soothing. That said, it is maybe not that easy to find, more so as when you get closer the road signs only show cyrillic letters. The different sectors of the cliff are mostly oriented south but you will find some routes in the shade almost any time of day. The rock is limestone with pockets and holes offering more than 80 single pitch routes the full range of difficulties and inclinations (but relatively little of the steep overhanging type). For what we had climbed bolting and anchors seemed good and guidebook information is accurate. The cliff dries very quickly after rain. There are just a few small farms nearby the cliff and you might get eggs and milk there, basic supplies can be found in the village Baraći (approx. 6 kilometres away), more in Mrkonjić Grad. We camped on top of the cliff near the forest which was ok for the local farmer, be aware to walk or drive close to the bushes especially when the grass is higher.

Excellent and up-to-date guidebook information at: http://www.extremebl.com/index.php/en/k2-2/peckaen

Dreznica

Dreznica is a relatively small climbing spot about 28km north of Mostar just across the bridge over the Neretva river at the beginning of the beautiful Dresnica valley. You can park just after the bridge and walk up to the right for 100m or so to reach the cliff. The local farmer who owns the terrain might charge you with 2 Marks per person for a climbing day. There is fresh water, tables and benches and enough routes to keep you busy for a day or 2. Some of them are rather short and most of the bolting seems ok. There is more climbing near / above Mostar but we didn’t visit that area. Contact the local climbing club for more information.

Basic guidebook information can be found here and here.

Sarajevo

There is a small cliff in the city with some bolted routes. We didn’t climb there but it seems to be enough to keep you busy for a day or so if you are “stuck” in Sarajevo and don’t know what else to do. Just drive towards the eastern exit of Sarajevo (follow the Bentbasa road) and stop before the road starts to climb (near the public swimming pool). Walk the paved road along the river for a few hundred meters and you will find the climbs at the cliff to your left.

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