China

Kunming

There are multiple climbing spots around the capital of Yunnan province, Kunming. The best source of information is Kunmingrock.

Xiao Mo Yu village (you can park at N25°5.190' E102°36.009' (elevation 2188m) and hike through the fields to the cave or walk from the village left) just a few minutes up and out west of Kunming offers some nice climbing. We spent a few days in Little Dark Rain Cave which offers steep climbing in a cave protected from the rain. Routes are very nice, only the ones at the entrance have poorer rock quality.

A new spot is Swallow Cave a few kilometers outside of Kunming. It also offers steep climbing on limestone. You can park at N25°7.702' E102°35.787' (elevation 2262m), take a right at N25°7.795' E102°35.473' and follow the obvious trail. There are about 15 routes with more to come.

 

Shigu

Shigu is a new climbing spot about an hour from Lijiang. There are 4 sectors, a cave incl. climbs right of the cave, mostly steep and shorter, about 200m down the valley another one with longer and technical climbs, further right of the cave a wall with 5 or 6 climbs (we didn't climb) and on the other side of the valley next to the waterfall about 8 climbs, some very long and technical (up to 5.12b?) and a 7 pitch climb.

Check in at the climbing base camp in the village (N26°51.503' E99°53.556', elevation of 1976m). Here you can get the latest information, a room and very nice food!

 

You can also get some info on Climbshigu (careful, the topo is not completely accurate) and here (Cave Sector, Left of the Cave - some routes missing). As many of the routes are relatively new be careful - not all routes show perfect rock quality!!

Fumin

Fumin is a well established rock climbing spot north of Kunming. The climbing is located in Fumin canyon (you can park at N25°11.907' E102°27.866' (elevation 1716m) next to the power plant), mostly on the right side of the river. On the lower walls there are multiple sectors next to each other each featuring around 10 routes, many of them short. You can cross the bridges and simply follwo the trails on the other side of the river. As many routes were wet when we were there we mostly climbed on Wheeping Wall. The access can be a little tricky as it is exposed and also wet. There is more and longer climbing higher up and one sector on the left side of the river (Eye Cave) which was also wet.

Information on the routes can be found in the guidebook Climb China or online.

Liming

Liming is a beautiful village in a spectacular setting of red sandstone on top of lush green forrests and a paradise for trad climbers with a lot of additional potential. Originally developed by Mike Dobie who co-authored the English/Chinese guidebook on the area (excellent by the way) it is still on-going additional development. Drive to Liming, check in at the "Far Away Inn" - the climbers meeting place and guest house and get the latest information there. Bring your own trad gear and be ready to start at low grades (unless you are an expert in crack climbing). As there are many beautiful sights in the area there is a lot to do for rest days - especially if you like hiking on stairs ;-) - as everywhere the Chinese built thousands of them in that area. GPS coordiantes of our parking lot: N27°1.563' E99°40.741', elevation: 2207m.

Getu

Wow, is the only thing to say. Known by climbers latest since the Petzl rock trip in 2011 this small and lost village at the shores of Getu river is a place to fall in love with. Awesome climbing in all grades (though it is better if you climb harder than 6c), single pitch and really great multi pitch climbing, steep roofs, caves and technical climbing, Getu offers everything. You find a relatively accurate topo on the Petzl web-page (from 2011), newer routes can be found in the guidebook Climb China. The village is simple but you can get good and very cheap food, people are extremly welcoming and the countryside is just amazing. True, some of the sectors require a half an hour walk but they are all worth it. Many cliffs are oriented south, so better avoid the warm months. We were there in November and it was still a too hot on many days to climb in the sun. GPS coordinates of the "village center" / parking: N25°40.686' E106°15.570', 926m

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