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Durmitor (Pirlitor)

Pirlitor in Durmitor national park is a small but beautiful climbing spot in northern Montenegro not far from the Tara canyon and Žabljak (GPS: N 43° 9’47.99" E 19°14’3.02”; this is the position of the climbing spot, you can not drive all the way there). There are about 20 well bolted routes on vertical limestone on 2 walls up to 7b+. A topo can be found on a big sign when you arrive at the spot but grades and route names are also written at the wall. You can find water and you may camp in the valley before the abandoned church and cemetery. For shopping drive to Žabljak or get fresh cheese and milk from a local farmer. The climbs are very nice, bolting is very good and just sitting around and looking at nature can be very relaxing. Definitely a must stop if you pass in that area.


Smokovac is situated at the exit from the Morača Canyon, and it is around 5km north of the centre of Podgorica. It is probably the best and biggest climbing spot in Montenegro. When you follow the main road there is a bridge crossing the river (which is by the way a perfect refreshment after climbing) followed by a big petrol station on the right (GPS: N 42°29’2.86" E  19°18’22.67"). Stop either before the bridge or opposite the petrol station, you will see cliffs on both sides of the valley. There is a camp ground next to the bridge (not so nice) or you can camp down at the river.
The limestone cliffs feature more than 100 vertical and slightly overhanging routes, many can also be climbed when it rains. Watch out for the bolting, there is a mix of bolts and some stations have unconnected bolts. Check out Montenegro Climbing for more information on climbing in Montenegro and topos.


Also located in Durmitor national park Lojanik features very few and easy alpine style multi pitch climbs on almost white limestone. Access to the climbs takes about 45 minutes from the parking at a small farm house (GPS: N43.103132° E19.017021°, water available) and the beginning of the climbs is rather hard to find (watch out for some slings). Bolts are sparsely placed (and mostly 8mm) but anchors have 2 bolts and are mostly connected. Bring some gear for self protection. A topo can be found here (grades are easier than indicated on the topo). Overall a nice area, don’t come here for the climbs but if you are in Durmitor national park it is a nice distraction from other activities in a beautiful landscape.

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