Tonsai (incl. Railey)
OK, it is just here for the sake of completeness, this spot near Ao Nang and Krabi on Phra Nang peninsula does not need any introduction. It is one of the major global climbing spots and even though Tonsai is changing (see also separate blog entry) it is a place you must have visited. There is enough climbing for months on perfect rock and now almost everything is re-bolted with titanium glue bolts. Get the guidebook and start climbing and relaxing! Don't forget to discover the islands that offer also superb climbing!!
Chong Pli (N 8°4.911' E 98°49.769', altitude of 43m) is located just a few kilometers from Ao Nang on the main land. The climbing spot is also described in the guide book for Tonsai. It boosts about 50 to 70 routes of all grades on perfect rock (up to 3 pitches). A handful of bungalows are directly at the cliff and you can still eat in the village for 50 THB. It is a perfect place to climb on the mainland. The bigger sector is in the shade till early afternoon with most routes protected from rain, Heart Cave on the other side of the mountain is in the shade all day and completely protected from rain.
About 40 minutes from Chiang Mai direction Mae On is Crazy Horse Buttress (N 18°46.918' E 99°14.199' at an altitude of 460m). A climbing spot developed and used by Chiang Mai Rock Climbing Association (CMRCA). You can get the guidebook in Chiang Mai at CMRCA. The climbing spot is divided in about 18 smaller crags boosting about 150 routes of mostly easier grades (up to 8a). At the main wall many climbs are rather technical but the latest development, Heart Wall - about 20 minutes up the hill - offers perfect steep climbing on beautiful limestone and tufas. The base of the cliff offers covered seating areas and is perfectly maintained by CMRCA. On the main road just a few minutes walk down the hill you find Jira Homestay where you can get rooms and (lots of) food.
This climbing spot is located about 2 hours north of Bangkok near Saraburi. To go there go to Nam Pha Pa Yai Camp (N 14°41.869' E 101°3.907' at an altitude of 31m) which is a nicely run and climbers camp with some tree bungalows and place to put your tent. You can get food there and relax in the perfectly quiet atmosphere. Most of the climbing is on the other side of the river which you access using zip-lines. Topos are available at the camp and also at the cliff. Bolting is perfect. There are about 35 routes on the other side of the river and some in a sector for beginners. Check Facebook for the latest info.